We left La Arena this morning wrapped in fog. It was the first real sign of rain since starting the Camino nine days ago.
It kind of felt like the weather finally realized we were in northern Spain and hit snooze one last time before waking up to do its job.
We donned our rain gear about one hour in and put them to the test. It seems as though the rain comes and goes, like it can’t make up its mind, or just want to mess with us as it doesn’t last too long.
After two straight days of slogging through cityscapes and concrete jungles, I was thrilled to say goodbye to urban life.
Today felt different—like the Camino had remembered it’s supposed to be scenic. We moved inland, leaving the beach town of La Arena behind, and dove back into the woods.
Sure, the trail went up and down (and up and down again), which my thighs did not appreciate, but being in nature again felt like a reunion with an old friend who smells like pine and occasionally tries to kill you with hills. Although, in this case, the smell would be honeysuckle …… (it’s everywhere), and the hills are not “occasional!”
Along the way, we stumbled across a group of, what I think were, wild goats. These daredevils were casually perched on a narrow 12-inch cliff edge like they were doing a Vogue photo shoot. No fear, even for the baby goats.
We passed through a handful of sleepy little towns on our way to Castro Urdiales, a 12 mile trek and, as we approached, the landscape did that magical Camino thing where everything opens up and you feel like you’re walking into a postcard.
We were following the Wise Pilgrim GPS app, which was dutifully leading us down a busy city street toward our hotel. But then I noticed a road just a few blocks over that hugged the coastline. On a whim—and in true “what could possibly go wrong?” fashion—we veered off-route down a side street, hoping for a more scenic approach.
To our surprise, the detour led us to a beautiful old house, clearly once a grand single-family home, now transformed into a Cultural Center showcasing local artists. Naturally, we ditched our packs at the door, wiped the trail off our shoes, and wandered in.
It was an unexpected gem—quiet, creative, and full of the kind of local charm no app can predict. Sometimes, the best parts of the Camino aren’t marked on any map.
Castro Urdiales is stunning. Easily one of our favorite towns so far. It’s got the full medieval package: a castle, a Gothic church perched dramatically on a cliff, lighthouses, and a seawall that looks like it’s just waiting to star in a fantasy movie. You half expect to see a dragon swooping by or at least a sexy, shiny knight with great hair. This place is amazing.
Elevation gain today: 1,400 feet
Xoxo, Kate